Coolant System Cleaning

If you’re seeing any of the below, the issue is often the system, not the coolant:

• Odor returns quickly after “adjusting”
• Slime/film on walls, lines, or covers
• Chronic foam across multiple machines
• Rapid pH drop after top-offs
• New charge fails fast (days/weeks)
• Sticky residue and stained machine interiors
  

A system cleaning resets the habitat, so your next coolant charge starts on clean surfaces and stays stable longer.

• Biofilm that harbors bacteria
• Sludge and fines that accelerate breakdown
• Residue layers inside tanks and return lines
• Contamination left behind from the prior coolant cycle

If problems keep migrating sump to sump, the fix is a true reset: clean the tank and lines, then restart with controlled concentration and monitoring.

Step 1: Plan the downtime window

• Pick a low-impact window
• Prepare containers, PPE, and disposal plan per local requirements
• Confirm you have what you need on hand (cleaner, test tools, premix plan)

Step 2: Remove bulk contamination

• Skim tramp oil first
• Remove chips/fines/sludge physically where possible
• Clean accessible screens and filters

Step 3: Clean the system and circulate

• Follow the cleaner product instructions for concentration, temperature, and circulation time
• Circulate through the machine so lines and return paths get cleaned, not just the tank

Step 4: Drain and rinse as needed

• Drain the system
• Rinse/flush if required by your process and cleaner instructions
• Remove loosened residue and sludge

Step 5: Recharge correctly

• Mix correctly (water first, then concentrate)
• Use a mixer for consistency
• Circulate and sample after 10–15 minutes
• Log Brix and pH on Day 1 and Day 2

• Keep concentration above minimum floor
• Premix top-offs only
• Tramp oil control (skimming)
• Weekly Brix + pH checks
• Remove fines and sludge routinely
• If one machine keeps failing first, treat it as the source until proven otherwise